Star Trek Insurrection Captain’s dress uniform

Last night I finished the most involved project I’ve ever made in a short space of time.

About a year ago, my husband and I were watching Star Trek: Insurrection. Occasionally, my husband points out costumes or items of clothing that he wants me to make him. This time, he happened to point out one that I was in love with:

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The dress uniform has quilted panels across the shoulders and in the zippered front panel, extended front tails, a cropped back, gold lame bias tape accents, red and gold piping details, red bias tape in the collar stand, and red bias tape on the deep cuffs. To my husband’s disappointment, I did not make the funky braided ceremonial hat for his head.

I definitely procrastinated on this for a while. I was a bit fearful of fitting another person in such a tailored looking jacket. I assembled the materials for it after we watched the movie, but they sat around until last week.

I was able to find gold lame bias tape from It has a fusible back. While it was thin (1/4 inch), I used two lines of it in most places. I got red bias tape from as well, but it is the low quality poly/cotton stuff. I should have bought the good stuff locally, but it is just a costume piece. I also got white poly cotton twill from, but the grey stuff to eventually make a lower rank dress uniform for myself with the grey zippered panel. I did not find a good choice for the red and gold piping. Most stuff I found was thicker, upholstery grade and would have been difficult to sew in because of the many many layers of fabric. I decided to leave it off.

I started with M7216 for my pattern. PSA to all, it’s so easy to fit someone else, especially a guy! I started with a tissue fit to see if the pattern out of the envelope would fit him. There were some adjustments to make: full belly adjustment and a narrow shoulder adjustment, but overall it fit him really well. After those adjustments, I modified the pattern to have a front panel, as well as a bit of a curved side panel to make the fit over the stomach a lot cleaner looking. I raised the neckline and then used the collar stand piece from my M6696, because it was the closest pattern with a stand. Collar stands are pretty universal. I also added shoulder pads to give more structure to the shoulders.

Instead of adding panels for the quilting to the shoulders, I just sewed detail lines there and in the front zipper panel, too.

The sewing process was quite involved with all the lines and bias tape that needed to be matched as well as the cuff and collar.

The construction on the collar was a bit rushed as it was a half hour before we left for Fan Expo to perform, but I am not going to beat myself up on it.

I love the cuffs.

My husband looks absolutely fantastic in it and it showed in his improv last night, because he kicked ass.

We performed last night at Fan Expo with PJ Phil from YTV’s the Zone. He was PJ in the 90s and I came rushing home from high school to watch Sailor Moon during the Zone every day. PJ Phil is a Canadian celebrity, especially for us 90s kids.

It was a lot of fun and Phil was a great Admiral Sulu!

I made the other uniforms excluding the other female performers’ uniforms which they purchased on their own. You can read about the guys uniforms here.

The jacket is my crowning achievement, though, and has given me so much confidence with sewing going forward.

Star Trek Insurrection Captain's dress uniform

Star Trek Insurrection Captain's dress uniform

The back fits incredibly well, but you will have to take my word for it since I didn’t take a picture of it.

Next up is to adapt this pattern into a Captain Kirk uniform from the early Star Trek movies for our performance at C4 in Winnipeg in October opening the Con and for William Shatner:


My husband is eventually going to have an entire Star Trek cosplay closet along with his TNG uniform. It’s going to be great. I need to get business cards with my blog so when people ask him who made his spiffy costumes, he can pimp my blog. 😉

If you are in Toronto, come see the Dandies perform Star Trek improv at Fan Expo again at 5:30pm tonight in 701B. If you can’t make it to that, we also have our regular show Holodeck Follies on Wednesday night at Social Capital Theatre.

In terms of the pattern and giving it proper review, I feel I can’t really rate it fairly since I changed it so much. I do think, though, that the mark of a good pattern is being able to adapt and change it without the fit falling apart.

Live long and prosper or, as we say in the comedy business, Laugh Long and Prosper!



25 thoughts on “Star Trek Insurrection Captain’s dress uniform

  1. The jacket fits your hubby so well, all of your uniforms are amazing! Andie, what a great achievement and so glad it has given you confidence to tackle new things. Notice your nemesis the zipper- looks like you hit that outta the park! The cuffs are so neat too.

    If you’re struggling to find the right weight trim or braids and fancy a nice genteel sofa craft (or one you can do in a flare up) have you thought about Kumihimo or Lucetting? Vikings also did Kumihimo but they called it (may be wrong spelling here) Trollem weaving. It’s also great gentle movement for the hands if they’re feeling stiff. Both were used for dress and costume throughout the ages so ideal for us sewers looking for an authentic touch or just something special. Pretty much any yarn or threads can be used with both so the options are limitless.

    … I just wrote all that and I’m still totally in awe of those costumes. Will show my baby brother (age 25) when I see him, a self confessed cosplay wearing, sci fi loving, table top gaming geek. He’ll love them!!!

    Big stripey Star Trekky hugs, T x

    1. Kumihimo sounds similar to the friendship bracelets I made in elementary school. It’s very interesting. It looks like a good thing to do on the flare up days. I was also thinking of knitting as something to work my hands.

      Yeah! My jacket zipper went it really well! I think I figured out that the machine definitely can’t feed zipper tape so having a layer in between will improve the eating issue it’s been having. I’m not sure why zipper tape is the thing it hates, though? Finicky machines! LOL.

  2. This turned out really well! Your husband looks smashing in it!

    I’m doing Kylo Ren and Rey costumes for my husband and I for Halloween, and I have to confess that I’m awfully intimidated by that Kylo Ren coat (those pleated sleeves!) AND I even have a McCall’s pattern for that one. (At least the Rey costume should be super easy.)

    1. WOW! That’s quite the undertaking with Kylo Ren. I really want to make the Rey costume! I love it so much. That one will be a lot easier for you. Please tell me your daughter is planning to be BB8!!!!

      1. We really tried on the BB-8, but even though she’s completely obsessed with BB-8, she doesn’t want to be him (her?) for Halloween. She wants to be Finn instead (easy enough costume–black t-shirt, black pants, and that flight jacket…we found a kids’ copy of the flight jacket, so I won’t be sewing that).

  3. Awesome work Andie, that jacket had a lot of details but you pulled it off. And how fantastic is it that your husband will soon have a full Star Trek wardrobe? #lifegoals

  4. This is so fantastic! I loved following along with your process on instagram, it was amazing to see how skillfully you worked it all out and powered through it. And the finished product is just jaw droppingly good. Looks like a fun time was had by all!

  5. Great work! Your husband looks very proud of his jacket, as he should be: it really fits him well and the detail work is on point, and he pulls it off beautifully. =) I think it’s awesome that he is on his way to a full Star Trek wardrobe courtesy of his own personal costume atelier, hehe!

I love comments, but sometimes I may be slow to respond/approve. I will respond though. :)

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