I’ve been wanting to sew up a Cashmerette Dartmouth top since it was released early this year. It’s a style of top that I always loved in RTW but could never wear for fear of bust exposure. The Dartmouth top is perfect, though. The cup sizes make it wearable for bigger busts without the danger of exposure.
While my bust is nicely contained in the shirt, the bridge of my bra peeks out. This problem is due to the bridge being too high on my handmade bras; the bridge comes up about 2 inches higher than I think it should and pulls away from my body causing discomfort under my bust. My bra cup does need more room but I have a pronounced breastbone so if the bridge goes too high, it will not sit correctly anyway. It’s an issue that I am remedying soon with some bra pattern changes and cutting my wires a bit shorter at the front. These changes are for comfort and accessibility. I haven’t made a new bra in a year and a half because of the issues. But it is long overdue. I’m down to just 3 handmade bras and really need to get a move on the alterations. Once those are altered, there will be no issue with my Dartmouth top.
I made my usual size 22 G/H graded to a 24 at the hips. The fabric I used is a slinky bamboo jersey in a coral monkey print. It’s a great fabric for the gathers at the side seam. By the end of a day of wear, the fabric is a bit stretched out, but it snaps back into place with washing. Poor recovery does tend to be an issue with rayon and bamboo knits in my experience. The weight of them also tends to pull the hem a bit lower. I shortened this top by 3.5 inches. I just serged the bottom, because lazy. The two top layers are sewn together, which leads to a bit of drape from the top layer due to the fabric. In the future, I might go for less lazy to get it to sit right at the hem.
The pattern went together well. The only change I made was to add sleeve bands, because lazy and I prefer sleeve bands. I find that the sleeves sit better in a knit with the bands. It helps that I hate hemming knits. To be fair, it’s my sewing machine that hates hemming knits. Jane Eyre is such a diva.
TL:DR Review
- Pattern: Cashmerette Dartmouth Top
- Pros: I love everything and the size range and cup sizes are perfect.
- Cons: My bras don’t work with it. Just something to keep in mind. It’s not too low cut for me, but may be for some people.
- Make again?: Just need to find the fabric. Wouldn’t this look fabulous in a leopard print?! ❤ ❤
- Rating:
5/5 stars
Andie Wells Studio 
Andy
that is such a cute top I LOVE the 🐒 print! Im envious that you make your own bras. If I could find a front close with a lil pading & underwire I’d be surely tempted. It’s getting more & more difficult to unhook the back close bras with the rotater cuff tear in my rt shoulder.
You seem to be able to make anything & make it look great on you as well. Your my sewing hero lol
I’m altering my bra pattern for front closure too because of my shoulder and collar bone issues. I’m excited about it since I got a great idea from a blog recently. I’ll post on how it goes. 😁
Thank so much for your lovely comment! You’re the best! ❤❤❤
Love it with the green. It looks very watermelon like and I mean that as a compliment! I love the print, good job there.
Lovely top, as usual! I would argue your point about shortcut on the hem.. that is NOT lazy, that is efficient, and I think very RTW these days. There is less and less finishing being done on factory goods, even high end, so don’t think you have taken s shortcut; rather you are traveling part of the road more traveled. Best wishes on your bra adjustments. I am getting my head wrapped around simply starting on that path.
Aww thanks Chris! I prefer the sleeve bands so it works for me! And I see serged hems everywhere in rtw too. All the best!
Yes on leopard–make it now! The monkeys are so fun, and I’m with Chris–there’s tons of no finish hems out there these days. I just watched Peggy Sagers make a top without a finished hem and she deemed it “modern”. See how cutting edge you are Andie!
I though leopard print would be easy to find, but I am having such a hard time finding it! lol I will find it someday though. 🙂 Glad to know my laziness is cutting edge. Hahah. 😉
Really like it.I always prefer with sleeves…this is luking beauiful.I liked the print option also.I love sewing and this helped me so much.
Thanks so much! 😀