The Grainline Studio Hemlock Tee was recently updated for a larger size range. Previously, it was only available in one size but this update includes multiple sizes and it’s still a free pattern! Free patterns are really great for me since I am still recovering from being unemployed for the majority of this year (feel free to drop me a kofi if you want to help me out; things are still really tough for me even though I am employed now). Thankfully my stash was large and in charge so I wasn’t experiencing withdrawal from sewing. One of the difficult things about sewing is that it can be financially inaccessible: sewing machines can be expensive and especially here in Canada, fabric is expensive and patterns are even more expensive than in the US. I am so envious of those pattern sales in the US! So when free patterns are offered by companies, it really helps people who don’t necessarily have the funds to buy the latest new pattern. I know this isn’t necessarily something every company wants to do based on their own financial resources, but it really helps people with lower incomes. ❤ I really appreciate the free patterns I have been trying out lately.
The Hemlock tee is a drop-shoulder tee with short sleeves and long sleeves for options as well as different lengths. You get it for free when you sign up for the newsletter.
To test the pattern out, I chose the short sleeve and cropped version using leftover fabric from my Clementine shirt. It’s a rayon spandex knit in a tropical leaf pattern.
The new size range is 0-30. Grainline, however, has different blocks for 0-18 and the 14-30.
I used the 14-30 size range and chose size 26 since my bust is 52 inches. Although my hips are 56 and size 26 is for 55 inch hips, with the boxy style, the extra inch shouldn’t matter too much especially using the cropped version due to my lack of fabric for this.
It’s a boxy tee so the fit is oversized. It fits pretty well for the style and was super easy to make. It’s actually really great for someone who wants to start sewing knits. The instructions are quite good. That said, the seam allowance is 1/4 inch so if you aren’t using a serger, you may want to add to that or size up for a larger seam allowance. I used my serger for the construction and just using my machine to topstich the hems and the neckline.
It’s unfortunate that my hair is covering the neckline because those are the only issues I have with it. It’s not quite sitting right where the shoulders are which suggests maybe the pattern isn’t trued there or it has to do with my shoulders. I did manage to press it into submission and then topstitching helped but it isn’t perfect. That said, I also have narrow shoulders/upper bust so this is sometimes an issue. It could be truing, though, since the shoulder had a puff at that area. I have very little drafting experience, though, so I can’t confirm that the issue is there or with the fit on my body. And because I didn’t move my hair, you can’t really see it. Let me know if you try this and have issues with that, though! Or if you know exactly how to check for a truing issue.
The fix for that issue is relatively easy. It would be taking a small wedge out of the height of the shoulder at the neckline. I’m not too fused on it for this version, though.
It’s a pretty cute top and I love the cropped version with my Belmont leggings. Now that it’s winter here in Toronto, I haven’t worn it too much but I think once Spring hits, I will maybe make another… That said, I love the Mica shirt so much and I imagine that will be my go-to boxy tee. V-necks are just so much more my style than this higher round neckline.
TL:DR Review
- Pattern: Grainline Hemlock Tee
- Pros: Good size range and options. FREEEEEE when you sign up for their newsletter. Good instructions.
- Cons: Possible truing issue at the shoulder, but I am not a drafting expert so I can’t confirm that.
- Make again?: I would. However, I like the v-neck of the Mica shirt a bit more than this but occasionally I do like a round neck too.
- Rating:
4.5/5 stars
Andie Wells Studio 
It’s so cute on you Andie! I’m glad Grainline graded their Hemlock tee as it’s one of my favourite patterns. I made a similar adaptation from their previous version – kept the length of the body and just lopped off the sleeves. The wide sleeves have a really nice effect short, I think.
Thanks so much, Siobhan! I love the short sleeves so much!
Thanks for the review! I’m very pleased that Grainline has begun to expand their sizes and am looking forward to giving this one a try.
As for truing seams, it’s a straightforward idea: you want to be sure that the seams on both pattern pieces are identical in length (unless you’re supposed to ease it in) and that the joins are smooth. Easy to describe, but trickier to do!
In the Folds has some excellent explanations/tutorials:
How to : Check and true sewing patterns — In the Folds
https://inthefolds.com/blog/2016/6/14/how-to-check-patterns
Checking patterns : Curved seams — In the Folds
https://inthefolds.com/blog/2015/12/16/checking-patterns-curved-seams
The above methods won’t work for tight curves, like a crotch curve. In those cases, I’ve seen people actually measure the seams. But you have to be really precise and make sure you are measuring exactly along the sewing line.
Thanks so much, Margaret! That helps a lot. I’m going to check my pattern sometime soon. ❤❤❤